Transdermal drug delivery systems have been intensively studied over the past 20 years, with a focus on overcoming skin barriers to more effective application of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. The cosmetics industry is a dynamic industry that continues to develop the latest technologies in response to the changing needs and preferences of consumers. Increasing consumer awareness of health and environmental aspects has prompted cosmetic companies to develop products that contain natural and organic ingredients, as well as products that are free of microplastics, artificial dyes and chemicals.

Source: Internet

The latest trend of technological development in the cosmetics industry, which can successfully replace traditional cosmetics, can be seen in the large number of invention applications in the field. A search of patent documents related to cosmetics revealed 21,355 congeners covering 33,685 invention applications in the field over the past three years (JWP patent attorney Agnieszka Pazik based his findings on Minesoft® 's PatBase® database). The countries with the highest number of patent applications for such inventions are China, South Korea, the United States and Japan (Figure 1). Inventors eagerly file international patent applications, which may cover as many as 157 countries and territories. The leading institutions in the number of patent applications are Guangdong University of Technology, Shiseido Co., LTD., LG Home & Health Care Co., L 'Oreal SA and Procter & Gamble Co.

Figure 1. Countries with the highest number of patent applications

Source: JWP

Natural and environmentally friendly products are recognized by the market

By analyzing the categories and contents of patent applications, the trend towards reducing the environmental impact of cosmetics is clear. Plant extracts, essential oils, seaweed and other ingredients are less toxic to the environment and more healthy to the human body, and are increasingly used in the production of cosmetics. In addition, cosmetics containing natural ingredients are becoming more popular among consumers who are looking for products with more ecological and skin-friendly ingredients. Natural ingredients come from plants, minerals, and other natural sources, and their benefits generally include mild, effective, and a lower risk of allergies and irritation. Plant-based cosmetics containing ingredients of plant origin, such as oils and plant extracts, herbal and floral extracts, vitamins and minerals, are also very popular, which makes them even more attractive as they are less likely to cause allergic reactions or irritation than products containing chemical synthetics such as parabens, phthalates, or artificial dyes. In addition, cosmetics companies produce plant-based cosmetics using raw materials obtained from sustainable crop production, with the aim of supporting sustainable agriculture and biodiversity conservation.

Patent case introduction

Among the recently disclosed inventions, an interesting solution that follows the trend of personalized cosmetics is disclosed in GO HYEON JE's international application WO2022124689A1, which offers customized cosmetic sets compatible with the composition and type of the consumer's skin. The method consists of several steps, starting with the input of information about the consumer and the required data regarding the condition of their skin in order to assess their condition through skin diagnostic software, which determines the given skin type, possible allergies or allergic factors, and then calculates the composition of the cosmetic based on the ecological composition, on which an experimental set of cosmetic products is produced. According to the inventors, the products obtained in this way, tailored to the needs of consumers, provide effective skin care while being vegan products that have not been tested on animals.

Another inventive innovation is the development of a cosmetic composition that will be suitable for a broad group of consumers, characterized by unique and non-obvious compositions. For example, cosmetics rich in cannabidiol (CBD) are becoming increasingly popular due to its anti-inflammatory, analgesic and anti-allergy properties, with potential health benefits for skin and hair. Many companies specialize in different cosmetic formulations that contain CBD and adjust the dosage to different consumer needs. Cbd-rich moisturizers are known to help keep skin hydrated and relieve irritation and inflammation. They are especially effective for people with dry or sensitive skin. CBD lip balm, on the other hand, can help soothe chapped lips and protect them from harmful external factors such as wind and sun. For example, the German company BIONORICA SE has developed a cosmetic composition containing cannabidiol and ginger extract for atopic dermatitis. According to the international patent application WO2023046730A1, the composition combines the positive effects of CBD and ginger extract, which contains the lowest possible concentration of CBD and has anti-inflammatory and anti-itch effects. In addition, Hanyi Biotechnology (Beijing) Co., Ltd. also filed an international patent application WO2020097766A1, which focuses on the use of CBD to treat scars, especially hyperplastic, superficial, atrophic, keloid, contracture or depression scars, but the best application target is acne scars. Similarly, Hanyi Biotechnology filed an application with the European Patent Office for the invention of EP3711752 A1, which is the use of cannabidiol in cosmetic skin whitening methods. According to the patent disclosure information of the inventor, cannabidiol or cannabis leaf extract can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase to synthesize melanin, which has particularly good skin whitening properties.

As the population ages, there is also a growing demand for anti-aging cosmetics, products that can help maintain younger skin and significantly reduce or delay signs of aging. Cosmetic companies mainly focus on removing environmental factors that accelerate skin aging, such as ultraviolet radiation, fighting oxygen free radicals or skin dryness to delay the skin aging process itself, as well as preventive measures to accelerate biosynthesis and inhibit collagen breakdown while accelerating the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

At present, the most representative and functional ingredients for reducing wrinkles and improving skin elasticity are vitamin C and its derivatives, such as retinoic acid, which have strong anti-aging and anti-acne effects, but unfortunately, due to their acidity and low stability, they can cause severe skin irritation at the same time, which is why they are used to a limited extent. Retinoids include retinol, retinol palmitates, and analogues, which on their own have a relatively small irritating effect, but when exposed to light, they denature and show phototoxic problems, causing skin irritation. To this end, NEOPHARM CO LTD has developed an anti-aging composition that is highly stable and safe for the body. The composition of its European patent application EP3431082 B1 effectively reduces the visibility of wrinkles and improves skin elasticity due to its unique ability to stimulate collagen biosynthesis. Another patent application CN115444928A by Tianjin Suona Biological Medicine Technology Co., Ltd. in China is an anti-aging cosmetic mask or topical serum, lotion or cream containing active peptides. The cosmetics matrix contains ingredients such as plant SOD, sesame seed peptide, collagen polypeptide, probiotic active peptide, hyaluronic acid, natural cordyceps powder, ganoderma lucidum extract and so on.

In addition, some manufacturers are introducing anti-aging products that have younger, firmer skin effects and are naturally sourced. Some recently published inventions include an interesting solution published in the European patent EP3687632B1 application for Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher, The solution involves the use of meristem cells of Syringa vulgaris L. in anti-aging cosmetics. The disclosure of the invention shows that the cosmetic composition contains at least 5% meristem cell extract from clove, which has protective, firming and smoothing effects, while preventing skin relaxation by regenerating the skin and improving its biomechanical properties.

In order to protect the skin from the harmful effects of environmental pollutants such as smoke, dust, cigarettes, especially in cities and regions with increased air pollution, more and more companies are designing anti-pollution cosmetics. These cosmetics, when used regularly, can help maintain healthy and youthful skin and prevent premature skin aging. Examples of such cosmetic products such as MAUSNER JACK's US patent US5571503A cosmetic compositions include water and emulsified and water-dispersed anti-pollution compounds consisting of propylene glycol, hydrolyzed wheat protein, mannitol, glycogen, yeast extract, ginseng extract, linden tree extract, calcium pantothenate, chestnut extract, Micellar complex of phospholipids, sphingolipids, panthenol, cholesterol, hawthorn extract and sodium hyaluronate.

Frontier technology trend

In recent years, modern skin analysis systems based on artificial intelligence (AI) have been developed, which use advanced algorithms and vision techniques to assess skin conditions, identify skin problems and propose appropriate cosmetic or skincare solutions. To do this, the AI system uses skin images or scans to measure skin parameters such as moisture content, elasticity, texture, and pH. The AI skin analysis system provides consumers with knowledge about skin conditions, advises on selected cosmetics or treatments to help solve skin problems, and monitors the progress of skin treatment or care.